How to Care for a Pothos Plant (Beginner Guide)

If you want one houseplant that forgives mistakes, pick a pothos. It grows in low light, bounces back from dry spells, and looks great in a hanging pot, on a shelf, or climbing a wall. This guide covers everything you need to keep one healthy, in simple steps.

Pet safety note: Pothos (Epipremnum aureum) is listed as toxic to cats and dogs by the ASPCA. If you have pets that chew plants, keep it out of reach or choose a pet-safe plant instead.

Quick pothos care facts

• Light: medium to bright indirect light. Tolerates low light.
• Water: when the top 1 to 2 inches of soil feel dry.
• Temperature: 65 to 85 F. Keep away from cold drafts below 50 F.
• Soil: well-draining potting mix.
• Fertilizer: every 4 to
  
  8 weeks in spring and summer, if you like.
• Difficulty: very easy.

1. Light: bright but not burning

Pothos grows best in bright, indirect light. That means a spot near a window where the sun does not hit the leaves directly for hours. A few feet back from an east or north window works well.

It can live in low light, such as an office or a room with a small window, but it will grow slower and the leaves may become smaller. Variegated types such as Golden Pothos and Marble Queen can lose their pattern and turn greener if the light is too low.

Direct afternoon sun can scorch the leaves, leaving pale or brown patches. If you see this, move the plant back from the window.

2. Water: the most important part

More pothos die from overwatering than anything else. Use this simple method:

1. Stick your finger into the soil up to the second knuckle (about 1 to 2 inches).
2. If it feels dry, water. If it feels damp, wait a few days.
3. Water slowly until it drains out of the bottom holes.
4. Empty the saucer after 15 minutes so the roots do not sit in water.

In most homes this means watering about once every 1 to 2 weeks. In winter, it may be every 2 to 3 weeks because the plant uses less water. Do not water on a fixed schedule. Check the soil first.

Pothos often tells you when it is thirsty. The leaves will droop slightly and look a little curled. Water it, and it usually perks up within a day.

3. Soil and pot

Use a regular indoor potting mix. For better drainage, mix in a handful of perlite, about 1 part perlite to 3 parts potting mix. The pot must have drainage holes. A pot without holes is the fastest way to cause root rot.

Choose a pot only 1 to 2 inches wider than the root ball. A pot that is too big holds extra wet soil and keeps the roots too wet.

4. Humidity and temperature

Pothos is happy at normal home humidity. You do not need a humidifier. Keep it between 65 and 85 F. Keep it away from heating vents, air conditioners and cold drafts from windows in winter.

5. Fertilizer

Pothos does not need much. If you want faster growth, feed it with a balanced liquid houseplant fertilizer, diluted to half the strength on the label, every 4 to 8 weeks from spring to early fall. Skip fertilizer in winter. Too much fertilizer can burn the roots and cause brown leaf edges.

6. Repotting

Repot every 1 to 2 years, or when you see roots coming out of the drainage holes, or the plant dries out very fast after watering. The best time is spring.

1. Choose a pot 1 to 2 inches larger.
2. Gently slide the plant out and loosen the roots a little.
3. Place it in the new pot with fresh potting mix at the same depth as before.
4. Water well and let it drain.

7. Pruning and keeping it full

If your pothos looks long and thin with big gaps between leaves, trim the vines. Cut just above a node (the small bump on the stem where leaves and roots grow). New growth will come from near the cut, and the plant will look fuller. Use clean scissors.

You can also put the cuttings in water to grow new plants, which is the easiest way to get more pothos for free.

Easy propagation in water

1. Cut a stem with at least 2 to 3 nodes and 1 or 2 leaves.
2. Put it in a jar of room-temperature water so the nodes are underwater but the leaves stay out.
3. Place it in bright, indirect light and change the water once a week.
4. Roots usually appear in 2 to 4 weeks. When they are 2 to 3 inches long, plant the cutting in soil.

Common pothos problems and fixes

Yellow leaves: most often overwatering. Check that the soil dries out between waterings and that the pot drains. One or two older yellow leaves now and then is normal.

Brown, crispy tips: usually dry air, underwatering, or too much fertilizer. Water more evenly and reduce feeding.

Brown, soft spots: a sign of rot from too much water. Cut off the damaged parts and let the soil dry.

Drooping leaves: the plant is thirsty or has been overwatered. Check the soil. Dry soil means water. Soggy soil means wait and improve drainage.

Leggy growth: not enough light. Move it closer to a window and prune the long stems.

Small leaves: low light or a plant that needs nutrients. Move it to a brighter spot, and fertilize in the growing season.

Pests: look for tiny white fluff (mealybugs) or fine webbing (spider mites). Wipe leaves with a cloth and use insecticidal soap, following the label.

Frequently asked questions

Is pothos good for beginners? Yes. It is one of the easiest houseplants because it tolerates low light and irregular watering.

Can pothos grow in water only? Yes, for a long time. It will grow slower than in soil, and you should change the water weekly and add a few drops of liquid fertilizer once in a while.

How fast does pothos grow? In good light, vines can grow 12 inches or more per month in the growing season.

Where is the best place to put a pothos? On a shelf or hanging basket near a bright window, away from direct hot sun.

Is pothos the same as philodendron? No. They look alike, but they are different plants. Pothos has thicker, waxy leaves that are uneven at the base. A heart-leaf philodendron has thinner, smoother heart-shaped leaves.

Final tips

Water only when the soil is dry, give it bright indirect light, and use a pot with drainage. If you do just these three things, your pothos will grow well for years.